Thanks to M. Genereaux's retrofit, Dazed and Confused is now a fantastic
route--a must-do for Ass't Rock Guide candidates as it "has it all",
including about 40 m of traversing in the top 2 pitches alone.
It protects quite well in general, but in a few places you really need to
look around. Bring along the rack suggested in TABVAR's description (13-14
draws/slings is plenty though) and don't forget to bring a blue metolius
cam/tcu!!! You'll want it!!! And... do all of Genereaux's modifications to
the original line.
We cleaned it up a bit -- for a Yam route is has very little loose rock,
apart from scree (except for a block we tried to trundle that got stuck in a
chimney on the top of pitch 5, oops)/
Regards,
Tom Wolfe
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