Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Interior Ranges.
August 4th, 2005
Summer has finally begun in the Alpine. Twelve generally warm days and
some cool, clear nights have helped establish a summer snowcover that is
representative of what we
might expect in early July. There are reports of excellent alpine
conditions when good overnight freezes occur, but there was also the
tragedy of two climbers killed in a large avalanche on the North face of
Mt. Robson during a very warm and wet period on July 29th.
On August 2nd Park Wardens issued an Avalanche Advisory Update for High
Alpine Routes in the Mountain National Parks. They are calling the
conditions SERIOUS/CONSIDERABLE. Until more precipitation arrives,
alpinists have to make considered decisions almost completely based on the
question "Is it frozen now or not and is it going to be frozen later or
not?" Watch the thermometer, watch the skies, watch the sun and don't stop
thinking about how the snow feels now, and how it is going to feel later,
on your route. Get your hands and other tools into the snow. Be certain
that conditions are appropriate for your alpine adventures and be aware
that things change fast under the summer sun.
Generally the Rockies and Columbia Mountains have more snow cover than
average for early August. They are starting to get icy below 3000m and in
some places to the peaks, but high north faces (above 3300m) may still be
a bit on the wintry side.
Glacier travel is still good for this time of year but you likely won't
get far without crampons if you get a good freeze. Rockfall is still a
major concern, especially around the edges of the retreating glaciers and
where the snow is melting to expose steep rock.
Alpine Rock Routes are generally in great shape except on low angle, high
elevation ridges and on some of the big gnarly Alpine North Faces like Mt
Alberta.
Mixed Alpine routes such as the Andromeda Strain and Edith Cavell North
Face are very BAD ideas right now with poor climbing conditions and LOTS
of rockfall potential.
Keep your thinking cap on and enjoy the summer while it lasts.
>
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Larry Stanier
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