[MCR] Mount Smuts

Subject: [MCR] Mount Smuts
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 15:08:02 -0600
Climbed South Ridge of Mount Smuts in K-Country Yesterday(Aug 16).   I am quite 
surprise that this peak is in the Scrambles book, and that more people have not 
fallen off of it!!   After the typical Rockies scree slog, you get on to the 
ridge, then the next section you climb about 150 meters of exposed low 5th 
class climbing, and the upper part is 3rd to 4th class.  On the 5th class 
climbing, there is bunch of pins, few of them I pulled with my fingers.   I had 
3 medium size cams, which I used for one of the belays.  There is one brand new 
bolt and piton on the upper part of the ridge.

On the descent, right where the crux starts, there is a sloping ledge on the 
west side.  I built a station with three pins and was able to rap to the scree 
gully with a 55 meter rope( a clean rap).

An ok route, but I would not recommend it as a typical scramble!!

Cheers,

Marco


-----------------------------------
Marco Delesalle
mdelesalle@xxxxxxxxx
403/609-5580
cell-403/609-7940