Mount Garibaldi on Sunday Aug 14 via Brohm Ridge and the Warren Glacier.
Glacier is well covered and in great shape with firm snow and good
travel conditions, slots are few and far between, making for easy route
finding to the upper mountain. Schrunds on the NE face are well
developed, but still quite passable on climbers left (standard route).
Large chunks seem to be regularly calving into the schrund so the
crossing is done on a bunch of dripping blocks but they seem to be
jammed together quite well. Typically this schrund stays filled in quite
late, though watch for large blocks from above breaking loose as the
season progresses. Take care as you approach to the edge, it is
deceptively undercut and overhanging in many places. It is also still
possible to cross lower down on the slope as well, though the terrain is
steeper and the bridges looked thin. Easy snow to the final scramble up
the pile of volcanic debris known as the summit. Descent the same way.
We watched one intrepid soloist on a traverse of the mountain descending
straight down the steep snow face through a series of large
schrunds/crevasses that are exposed to significant rockfall, so I guess
there are other options one could consider as well.
There is a locked gate at 1400 m on the Brohm Ridge road, from there it
is about 3.5 hours hike to the edge of the Warren Glacier (good tent
sites and water on the glacier). 3+ hours up to the summit from here.
The summit is a long day trip or a very civilized 2-day trip. A high
clearance 4x4 is needed for the road, though the Black Tusk Snowmobile
Club does a great job of maintaining the road; allow at least 45 minutes
up from pavement if you care about your vehicle.
Brian Jones
Canada West Mountain School
<http://www.themountainschool.com/> www.themountainschool.com
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