Climbed the standard N. ridge of Mt. Begbie yesterday with Barb and the
kids. The glacier approach is about 70% bare but pretty grippy (crampons
are not necessary if you are careful) and there are crevasses that require
avoidance. People typically consider this a benign glacier and travel it
with no rope. There are definitely slots here that could gobble you up so
tell your friends to be prepared.
The access to the 'ledge' is good at the moment but could change as the
schrund grows. This ledge access gets longer as the glacier shrinks, there
are now two narrow bits where protection of novice climbers is a good idea,
one at the start and the usual one midway (which is now equipped with two
bolt anchors at either end). Straight up from the ledge is some of the best
climbing quartzite you will find anywhere, beautifully featured and solid,
you can make it as spicy as you want.
The ridge is in great dry shape until the last step where about 2cm of the
white stuff fell on the 23rd. A classic climb in a beautiful setting.
Cheers,
Jim
Jim Bay
Mountain Light Tours Ltd.
P.O. Box 1789
Revelstoke, B.C. V0E 2S0
mtnlight@xxxxxxxxx
Ph. 250-837-6655
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