[MCR] Mountain Conditions Report - September 2

Subject: [MCR] Mountain Conditions Report - September 2
Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2005 07:20:10 -0600
Summary of conditions to date - Rockies and Interior Ranges
September 2, 2005

Generally pretty good conditions over the last week, although high alpine regions near the Continental Divide are getting progressively snowier.

Monday and Tuesday saw a brief system pass through the area, depositing up to 10 cm of snow at the higher elevations. Add this to the remains of the August 23 storm and there are still some significant snow accumulations to be found above 3300 meters. North facing routes are most certainly covered in snow now.

Strong winds through the week have been blowing the loose snow around and creating pockets of windslab - the kind of isolated slabs that can catch a climber by surprise. This was reported at both the Columbia Icefields and Lake Louise areas. Glacier travel conditions are generally quite good (foot penetration is low), but crevasses recently covered by new snow remain thinly bridged. New snow accumulation on the glaciers currently begins at about 2800 meters. Crevasse and bergshrund problems are normally at their worst during the late summer, and lots of poking and probing is required to locate the holes right now. No recent reports in from the Bugaboos, but conditions can be expected to relatively good and dry, with only the highest elevations and north facing routes covered in snow. For example, the final pitches on the summit block of Pigeon are full of snow and ice.

Routes in the Bow Valley such as Mt. Louis and Castle Mountain were dry and ready to go as of Friday.

The mountain forecast for this weekend is mixed, with precipitation forecast each day. The upper flow appears to be westerly, which generally gives drier conditions in eastern regions. The temperature will drop on Sunday, which will no doubt result in a few more centimetres of fresh snow falling on the Continental Divide. This will only add to those isolated windslabs that seem to be lurking about. There is of course lots of good climbing to be had - expect frozen and snowy conditions on the high north aspects. Anticipate rockfall each day on sun-exposed mixed terrain, as "Ze ice chunks melt, and ze rubble is loozened from ze mountain" (Eiger Sanction).

The trail up Bryant Creek into Mt. Assiniboine has been closed until further notice due to a grizzly bear encounter. If you're planning to hike into Assiniboine this weekend - don't go this way (and bring your gaiters, the mountain looks like winter!).

Grant Statham