Climbed A2 via the North Glacier/Boundary Col today, September 13, with
the Ft McMurray boys.
30-50 cm settled storm snow. Moist surfaces to about 2600m in the PM,
to 3000m on solar aspects. Breakable crusts in AM all elevations. Areas
of thick hard slab on the Boundary Glacier and above the bergschrund on
A2. The Spidey sense was tingling there but we could steer around it.
The upper rocks were snowy but OK, again we could steer around bits of
isolated slab. Crevasses on both glaciers were far less visible than 2
weeks ago, bridges are stronger, getting around and over them was
easier today. Trail breaking was not too onerous.
Loose snow avalanches to size 1 in steep terrain, no slabs noted.
NW flow all day, cold, moderate NW winds. Nil precip. Moderate wind
transport. Wind effect visible on the Silverhorn. Ice showing at the
top of Atha-B N Face, the mixed bit looked phat but unfortunately so
did the exit gully. N Face bypass very snowy still. The Ramp on the
regular route looked flat like usual, but how come it's always so scary
when you get on it? I was glad not to be on Athabasca today! It looks
snowy and loaded.
The Ninja remains on A2, silently on guard for all mountaineers.
Mark
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
mark@xxxxxxxxxxxx
www.alpinism.com
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