Guiding on the route yesterday. Freezing temps all day, valley fog in
the am. The route is involved and complicated right now due to a lack of
avalanches that usually fill up the gulley. There is a new WI 4 pitch
below the keyhole pitch that is usually buried in snow (fun climbing).
Keyhole pitch is all ice and great climbing, the pullover onto talus
held in place by a dinner tray slab of slate is sporty. Upper ice is wet
in numerous places an the last pitch is pushing the upper range of WI 5.
We didn't get the last 20 m due to running out of time. Strange to say
but the route could profit from an avalanche, I'm sure its on its way.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
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