[MCR] Johnsons/Finishing Hammer Gully

Subject: [MCR] Johnsons/Finishing Hammer Gully
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 22:07:31 -0700
The last few days Erica and I did some recreational ice climbing. Johnson's Canyon is workable with some open water around the climbing area. Not much is in other than the easier stuff, we top-roped one Grade 5-ish pillar which had just touched down. The rest hasn't really come in.

Today (the 5th) we did Finishing Hammer Gully above Waterfowl Lakes. This is a really nice little Grade 3 and recommended. Nary a speck of snow in the area, which made for a low-stress day where there was about 10cm of new snow on the road over Bow Summit and howling winds all day across the valley on Howse and Chepren. A bunch of rolling Grade 2 ice leads to 2 short Grade 3 pitches. There were some fresh abalakovs left over from a previous ascent, which we used for several 30 m raps before taking to the steep frozen gravel and bushes beside the gully.

We were less thankful for the frozen turd at about the only flat spot at the base of the route, where we roped up. I was standing right in it for several minutes before realizing the grim reality. Poor form, whoever did that!

We heard a couple of rumbles from across the valley; could have been avalanches or icefall I suppose.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
mark@xxxxxxxxxxxx
www.alpinism.com