Climbed Weathering Heights and Anorexia Nervosa today in the south
ghost. The road is completely dry. Almost no snow to speak of on the
approach.
WH was fat, and protect-able.
AN however, on the bottom pitch has almost completely sublimated. We
climbed the corner just left of the ice(or where it would be?) and came
in near the top of the original pitch. Surprisingly easy climbing
(M6ish), with tricky placements. We had a selection of wires, and three
medium cams and that did the trick. The second pitch was a little
hollow just after the second tier, but otherwise fine, and protect-able
throughout.
Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
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