[MCR] Ice and safety

Subject: [MCR] Ice and safety
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 19:56:47 -0800
As a public service reminder i thought this to be an adequate forum to get my message across.

Here was the scenario, Awesome early morning (too early for the location) but felt like getting some climbs in before the the first climbers got to the area (Evan Thomas Creek). The morning was awesome good coffee awesome moonlight spirit was high. Got to the base of the route feeling good. After my first route confidence was strong. By headlamp i enjoyed completing my second route before the light was good enough to illuminate my second rappel. The ice had been variable but good, a bit brittle in sections.

My first rap on the second route was relatively short i stopped at an Abalakov, the routes all had multiple fixed stations of the sort, I set a screw and clipped into both the screw and the "bomber" Abalakov. The knot was out of the ice and the ice was totally free of any visible fractures. After pulling my ropes through the anchor both ends were now on the ground. For a moment i hesitated, the anchor looked good, no it looked really good and i would be down in a short 30 seconds. However it could of been much quicker getting down if i had not back up my sytem. But i had no real time constraints or rush for safety i set a backup abalakov. I always back up anchors of this sort, had i had a partner we would of back up with a screw anchor. This time my system most likely saved my life. I leaned back and within a second or so a block of ice with abalakov intact was accompanying me on the rap. My anchor was set close to the initial Abalakov and the shock was not really noticeable.

After hearing that folks use the Abalakov routinely in this popular area and take them often as primary anchors i felt like i needed to say something. Maybe it was the quick change in temperatures that might of forced the ice to relieve some tension? Who knows, no visible or even location type flaws in the abalakov were noticed. On my hike out the colours were really bright, had a nice drive and enjoyed one of the best tasting coffees in my life.


Patrick Delaney
ASS. Alpine guide

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