[MCR] Various Ice Conditions report

Subject: [MCR] Various Ice Conditions report
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 22:08:33 -0700

Been out to a variety of areas over the past week…………

 

“Louise Falls”- in great shape with various options for the pillar(s). There are two daggers hanging over the cave at the base of the route (on the right side ). The daggers are big and pose a hazard to those on the approach and while gearing up. On another note the mixed routes “Captain Hook” and “Lowe Impact” are now doable because of these features.

 

“Whiteman Falls and Red Man Soars”- Whiteman’s has a WI 4+ pitch on the left to start and ends at a nice ledge. The second pitch traverses out to the center of the upper column and is solid WI5 with great gear and lots of solid hooks. Redman’s is in typical condition and is dwell protected with a few small-med. sized nuts and small –med sized cams.

 

“Seven Pillars of Wisdom”- “Damocles” is still in but the short pillars above and below the main pillar are delaminating and X-rated in character. The first pillar can be walked around to the left with ease but the second may be more of an issue to avoid. The lower pitch of the last tier on “7 pillars..” has fallen off ….not easily visible form the road.

 

“Lower Weeping Wall Right and Teardrop”- “Right hand weeping wall” is in great late season condition with limited sun effect. “Teardrop”- 70 meters of WI5 to a couple pitches of semi rotted WI6. Good gear was to be had but took some work to find.

 

Been cold in the morning up on the ice fields parkway the last few mornings -20 to -25 at 0600. Pillar features are under a lot of tension until the sun softens them up.

 

 

Cheers,

 

 

Rob Owens

Ass. Alpine Guide