[MCR] Icefields Conditions Synopsis

Subject: [MCR] Icefields Conditions Synopsis
Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 18:42:30 -0600
As the CAA has stopped functioning for season and not many people seem to be going out into the hills and reporting about it, this might help out;

On a ski mountaineering tour May 13-15th in the Mt. Columbia zone;

Valley bottoms melted out, hiking shoes a boon. Intense and severe radiation. Clear skies, overnight lows of ?12, alpine highs of 12. Winds L-Moderate from SW increasing with altitude. Some ridge top snow transport. No new NATURAL avalanche activity observed. Soft Slabs triggered on Mt. Columbia summit ridge (see ?Mt. Columbia/Catleguard? MCR report for details and pics).

Snowpack Synopsis

GLACIER CONDITIONS:
Valley to 1900m: Innovative business man could set up a slurpy stand anywhere in snow leading to glaciers. 1900m to 2200m; widespread melt-freeze crust supportive in early a.m., softening in p.m. creating either troublesome breakable double penetration but mostly nice soft crust/corn depending on aspect/elevation. Snow on the lower reaches of glaciers melting out super fast, bridges beginning to sag, crevaces going bearback, snowplugs exposed and yellowing. What snow there is, is isothermal. Here water has percolated deep into bridges weakening them significantly. Roping up advised at the very least on lower reaches of glaciers. 2200m-3200m; winter conditions beginning to change. Over 4 meters of snow with strong bridges, no sags, only the big gapers visible. Above 2800 meters 5-10 cm of settled HST (recent storm snow) can be found.

SLOPE CONDTIONS:
Icefields snowpack very variable with isolated weakness? persisting in the high alpine. First area of concern is the particular widespread weakness, susceptible to human trigger, on high alpine- lee & cross loaded- SE and NE aspects. -2800-3700 m, 10-15 cm of settled storm snow over 20-35cm of denser snow over a 3-4 cm windcrust/melt-freeze depending on aspect. On wind affected slopes, especially SE, a soft slab has formed with a poor bond above the crust. Seemed well settled below crust.. N and I suspect NW aspects, were much better, well settled/bonded layers with preserved 5-15cm surface powder. These slopes are susceptible to surface sloughing/loose snow avalanches- with trigger. -Below 2800 meters warmer temps have had an overall settling effect on the snowpack. Isolated pillows are still visible, caution on convex features. Next cycle of lower elevation solar aspect wet slides not running yet. -Non glacier vicinity slopes are warmer and need careful evaluation as they have had several melt-freeze cycles and are either bomber corn or ready for wet slide initiation depending on time of day/aspect.

Outlook:
High Alpine:
Caution; SE-NE soft slab on wind affected slopes. Do not be deceived by good overnight freezes. Daytime heating is just now beginning to affect alpine slopes below the surface snow and into mid-pack. A resulting slide or cornice failure could trigger a secondary early season weakness? avalanche especially in the lower alpine zones where they are more prevalent. I encountered cornices over 3600 meters that had a glazed top with moist snow 15 cm down. Below 3000 meters in the shade, moist snow down 30cm . Since the alpine is currently in that temperature transition time and just beginning to react to the day after day warm temps, all those nasties, such as cornice fall, rockfall, snowballing, falling mushrooms, will in my opinion make even North facing gullies not so user friendly. Increase caution with higher night-time low temps. Widespread cornice failure has not yet begun, but?
Low Alpine:
A new cycle of wet slide avalanches will likely begin happening on steeper S aspects very soon below 2800 meters or so. There are however many excellent solar aspect corn snow slopes to be skied and soft North aspects too. Maintain caution on windloaded and steep convex rolls here. Rockfall potential will become prevalent in the next while.

Treeline and Below treeline; Wretched blood sucking parasitic pests still abundant

Recommendations: These are tumultuous transitional times. In the mountains conditions are very variable; stop, think, consider, be more conservative until things even out and become more predictable.

Eric Dumerac
Rocky Mountain Vertical
ACMG Assistant Ski/Alpine Guide, CAA Level II, CSIA Level II Ski Instructor.
Long time ski tourer, pioneering alpinist, rock, ice, and mixed climber at your service.
403-609-2965 Canmore AB.