The Big step on the East Ridge is climbable but some wet areas. Snowy above
this. Picture shows the Black Towers and exit gully. The correct exit
gully does not have a cornice but obviously full of snow. Other (incorrect)
gullies are heavily corniced. If the upper route was climbed early in the
morning before the sun is on it and after a good freeze, it would be pretty
good. This would mean making the route a two day affair with a bivy. Temp.
there @ 10,000' this morning at 10:30 was +6 C.
Descent gully on Castle looks quite good with some snow still in the middle.
As Barry said, still lots of snow on top which would mean some wallowing to
get across from Brewers.
Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide
Descent gully 2.jpg
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Black Towers 2.jpg
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