Climbed both these area classics over the weekend.
Consolation: On pitch 6, it seems more reasonable to stay
high and traverse left to the anchor as opposed to dropping down and then
climbing back up as the guidebook suggests. It is easier to protect the second
this way.
Bonanza: Some very loose and precarious blocks are situated
in the lower chimney. Beware. Also, this pitch has been bolted which is not
mentioned in the latest guide book.
Rob Owens
Ass Alpine Guide