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I just spent a fine week in the North
Cascades.
Mt Shuksan- Price Glacier June
21st-22nd.
Access and approach in good shape as
explained in "Alpine Select" except the bridge is out over the deep and cold
Nooksack creek. Brrrrrr and a bit serious. Route was in great shape, snow just
getting soft at 6am on the east facing bits. We climbed 120m up a couloir
on the right side of Nooksack tower and then went hard right just below an
obvious rock step. Good traverse across to the exit slopes but you still have to
walk below some BIG seracs. One big unexpected crevasse to cross just
before reaching flat ground. Fisher chimneys route in excellent shape. The Price
glacier is a SERIOUS place so don't go unless you are really willing to take the
risks, feel you can move fast and have perfect conditions.
Mt. Baker North Ridge June 23rd and
24th.
More great snow and ice conditions. Access and
approach as in "Alpine Select" in perfect shape. Bivies are plentiful and
new toilets at the Hogsbacks area.
We used the right hand approach to the ridge. Could
be some loose rock showing soon but last weekend it was very snowcovered. One
pitch of very firm 75 degree glacier ice then another easier pitch. Good ice
anchors for those pitches but hard snow everywhere else if you need to
belay. Walk around big crevasse below summit on the left. Coleman-Denning
in good shape but some BIG,SCARY seracs below Colfax peak are a considerable
threat on the traverse from the camp. Early morning rock hard snow on the
Coleman-Denning is a bit of a concern with lots of peole wobbling around in
crampons in the area.
Slesse NE buttress June 26th-27th.
Access is good, however there is a newer trail than
in "Alpine Select" From the parking lot walk a short ways (I guess 20 mins
but sorry, didn't measure it) up the "4wd road" looking for a well flagged and very good, "new
looking" trail descending to the river. It obviously hooks up with the
Slesse memorial trail and is in good shape to the wooded knoll.(check in the
Chiliwack info centre for the local hiking pamphlet-it has the
beta)
The Bypass Glacier is a bit of a mess right now. We
had to do some sporty climbing on hard neve up and down and around
some huge glide cracks on the right hand side of the glacier/snowfield to
reach the buttress. It won't get any better until it is all gone. A truly
terrifying place to be in the heat of the day.
NE butress is in great shape. Lots of snow at
base of upper 4th class section if you decide to bivy.
We descended via Crossover pass. A bit more
complicated and bushy than I was led to believe but it does work. Lots of steep
snow and grass at present, maybe there is more of a trail later in the
summer?
Generally, I was pleasantly suprised at the firm
nature of the snowpack every where I went. Outside of the direct sun the snow
travel was awesome. I wouldn't go anywhere slopey and snowy without crampons for
awhile after what I saw this week. Daytime heating and direct sunlight were
creating mush and some wet avalanches. Rock routes are in great shape except
where wet from snow melt.
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
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