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The rain and snow of the last few days is basically
gone on all aspects and at all elevations. Just about everything worth climbing
is in grand shape around Lake OHara as of this afternoon, july
16th.
The only exception would be the west ridge of
Hungabee. It still needs some more melt on the west face and upper gullies
before the rockfall calms down to a dull roar.
Cathedral, Lefroy and Glacier peak are still mostly
snow but it would be foolish to go without crampons as the ice is growing every
day and the snow is sometimes freezing HARD.
Ringrose, Biddle west ridge and Odaray are in
good shape.
The Tarrant buttress is dry enough and the glacier
is icy on the voie normal.
Victoria is getting better and worse by the day.
More rock showing along with more ice. So it goes. The North face of the North
peak of Victoria looks disgustingly dangerous right now with complicated bare
ice travel and seracs overhead for a long way. I can't imagine it getting better
soon.
Lake OHara approach to Abbotts Pass is 90% dirt and
rock.
Lots of room at the hut most nights.
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
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