Boundary Peak via Boundary Glacier on Sunday. Rainfall
in am till 0530, freezing level around 9000’ (2740m). Boundary
Glacier becoming more difficult to access due to extreme rock fall issues on
climbers Right side (below boundary peak), and increasing amount of large open
crevasses on normal mid glacier route. Also note large seracs on climbers
left side which threaten quite a distance. Mid glacier route still
passable with a short belayed section over large snowbridges over crevasse (this
might not last long). North Glacier route on athabasca looks pretty good
but note active serac fall running almost to toe of glacier. A safer
route (green on photo), through this section is to cross to climbers left side
of normal route to avoid being under these seracs for too long (blue line is “most
often” used line). See attached photos.
Have fun
Jeff Honig Mountain Guide
Jeff Honig
Mountain Guide
Alpine Addictions
Box 1106
Revelstoke BC
V0E2S0
(250)837-2215 (home)
(240)837-1333 (cell)
jeff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
