These are some conditions valid as of the 10th of august.
North Glacier is devoid of snow up to the Boundary Athabasca Col. The
terrain appears to be getting steeper with every subsequent visit.
The North Face appeared to be in good shape not too much visible rock fall.
The last summer snow cycle had plastered the face before the 6th but was
gone yesterday. The ramp route looked in good shape also with the its
companion the silverhorn almost free of snow.
Boundary glacier from The col of the ridge on athabasca looked like a mess.
Rock and mud in several locations with very few "easy options" Traveling the
Left route brings one into rather large crevasses" The middle is rather
complicated and dirty the upper traverse below the wall has some snow ( no
visible tracks) but a new and rather large cerac is now looking down on the
chaos below. Overall Boundary glacier was not very appealing.
Patrick Delaney
ASS Alpine guide
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