I was chased out of the Bugaboos by rain on Thursday, Aug 10. Climbed Pigeon
on the 9th and all was good except the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col which is getting a
bit ugly.
Good snow walking to the bergshrund, good bridge to cross on right (for now),
then icy with gravel and 10 cm of slush on top. Not bad if frozen but
certainly ugly later in the day with parties underneath. Lots of rockfall with
the gravel, and it was unpleasant worrying about all the other people around.
Crampons essential. Rapelling neccessary if you are uncomfortable downclimbing
40 degree ice.
Bugs is very busy right now, the hut is full to capacity and there are 25+
tents at Applebee campground. Maybe less today since it was raining and
possibly snowing up high?
Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
BS Col Aug 9 - 2.JPG
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BS Col Aug 9.JPG
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