Darek Glowacki and I had a group in the Neil Colgan area Aug 14-16. Up
the Perren, Fay via the centre ice bulge and west ridge, down the
Schiesser.
Good travel on the glacier, most problem crevasses are visible and
avoidable. Good bridge over the schrund on the centre ice bulge route.
The west ridge schrund seems impassable on the normal line (shown in
Selected Alpine Climbs), we went up the ice face to the west (right) of
this and the schrund was bridged well there. The rubbly peaklet you
have to traverse over to climb the west ridge is no different than the
climbing on the rest of the route.
The backside descent still looked doable.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
|