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Aug 17-21 Climbed Mt Brazeau and Henry McLeod from the south on Aug 18th & 20th, with perfect conditions. The approach is well described in the ?11000?ers? but I have put a few in just to give people a sense of the terrain. The map for this area is not great, has the switching contours to 40m above 2000m and a lot of the features don?t show up well. The attached picture of the approach shows the route up from the side valley.(1) It?s a long slog to the bivy site at 2720 metres. But the views were incredible. We had runoff from the small patch of snow in the picture.(2) This is now ice and if it doesn't melt during the day you'll be chipping ice. Water can be found down below the site. It would be a ways, Climb There is short section of icefall hazard getting to the access tongue as you pass underneath for a few short minutes. It hasn't been recently active. We climbed Henry McLeod on the second day as a recon. The east face is easily climbed on 25-30 deg snow. For all the peaks, the left side of the glacier closer to Henry McLeod is followed. A big glaciated rib heading east on Henry is contoured . Not much for slots, most are obvious or well bridged. There is a small icefall on Valad Peak near Brazeau which can be avoided by staying lower. (3) Ascent of S face is mostly tedious scree on the way up from the col. Count on 1.5 hours. The 500 metre descent to col was 20 minutes on that same now ?excellent? scree. (4) Counted 21 11,000?ers from it?s summit. Very cool place. Mountain Guiding Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0 780 852 3237 www.incentre.net/pamann pamann@xxxxxxxxxxxx
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