Observations from several guides working in the Columbia icefields
the last few days.
The storm snow from last week has been subjected to some
melt freeze cycles up to at least 3400m. The resultant crust in largely
unsupportive and makes for somewhat difficult trail breaking where no trail
exists. (shin scrapping). Boot penetration ranges from
0-30cm. North glacier, North Face bypass, and silverhorn routes were all
climbed on Saturday. Good conditions were found on all. Mostly snow
climbing with good footing on the silverhorn with a few bare ice sections.
Nface bypass good snow steps, upper rock ridge snow covered. Good track
on N glacier ramp. N face looked great with a mix of bare ice and some
snow patches, crux pitch looked like rock not ice.
Generally cool conditions throughout the trip with above
freezing temps (+5) in campground in the mornings, but at glacier elevations
things stayed frozen all day (yesterday). Last night there was a trace of
new snow right to valley bottom, and a good freeze in the campground (-1@0700).
No avalanche observations but evidence of moist sluffs and pinwheeling
from last week’s warm daytime temps.
Looks like some mixed alpine routes are coming in, but after
our warm summer, lots are looking fairly dry.
Melt freeze crust could provide a sliding layer with the
next major snow/ wind event.
Cheers
Jeff Honig- Mountain Guide
Jeff Honig
Mountain Guide
Alpine Addictions
Box 1106
Revelstoke BC
V0E2S0
(250)837-2215 (home)
(240)837-1333 (cell)
jeff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx