I was out a few days ago to replace the anchors on
"yak crack" on yak peak. Unfortunately we got stormed
off at half way but we still managed to replace the
hard-wear up to pitch 6. This is were the new bolts
are.
Pitch one: The base of the large corner. Still in the
same spot.
Pitch two: 55meters up. took all the rappel webbing of
the large flake and put bolts beside it to the left.
Nice stance there.
Pitch three: up 40 meters. Bolts on top of treed
shrubs instead of under.
Pitch four: 50 meters. Go past first ledge and up to
larger one. Bolts are another 10 feet up past this
good ledge. I kept the bolts up here the same as the
FA's anchor so your ropes pull better. There are holes
drilled down and left on the main ledge if someone
wants to put the anchor down there instead.
Pitch five: Same spot as before. Hard to see them .
They are under the 5.9 roof off to the left above a
small stance.
Pitch six: Down and left from previous pin anchor.
Basically they are about halfway along the ledge to
the base of the corner.
Other notes. While cleaning a cam from the pitch five,
5.9 roof I pulled the hole flake off with no effort.
This means that now the move may be slightly harder
and that there is no natral protection at this spot.
because of this I put one protection bolt at this
spot.
All the old anchors came out with alarming ease. Most
old bolts came out with only a few taps of the hammer.
The old pin station on top of pitch 5 came out with
one tap! Keep this in mind when your trusting old
anchors out here on the coast. In many cases it is
possible to back up these anchors while climbing.
Remember to never trust just a few old pins or 1/4
inch bolts.
As well off 5 anchors I removed one 50 liter pack
worth of old rappel tat. Remember to clean off old
webbing when you replace it with new stuff. All the
anchors I replaced will need new webbing, I rappelled
off just the bolts since I was told these "mad rock"
hangers could be rappelled off. Turns out they don't
work to well and should have webbing on them.
Hopefully I 'll get the rest done next year. Take care
Craig McGee, IFMGA
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com 
|