The good news is that there are great fall conditions out there right now.
In the Rockies, the front ranges are dry and snow and ice conditions along
the divide make for good climbing. With the exception of north aspects,
snow has melted back to about 2900 metres. The bad news is that if the
forecast is correct and the big black clouds moving in mean something, this
will all likely change overnight. This may have been the last window for
Louis, Castle, Roche Miette, Roche Perdrix etc. Rain is starting in Banff
as I type. It looks like a significant amount of precip is expected over
the next 24 hours. Snow is expected at most elevations. This is to be
followed by stable weather but this time of year, routes take longer to dry
off. By Sunday though, south facing lower elevation rock routes might come
back into shape.
In the Bugaboos, the September snows have also mostly melted off and
conditions there are good. Again, on north facing routes such as the NE
ridge of Bugaboo, you can expect some remnant snow but it should be
climbable. The weather there as of this evening is still stable but the
next 24 hours will tell the story. Stay tuned.
Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide
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