MCR Summary Week of Oct 6-12
The superb alpine climbing conditions were
somewhat diminished but have mostly recovered after the previous system came
through on the sixth and seventh of October.
Snow fall in the alpine and down to
treeline was reported in the 10 cm to 30 cm range. The north facing and shaded
routes are maintaining cold and unconsolidated snow, Cool nights but sunny
days with higher temperatures have managed to consolidate or melt most of the
snow on south facing routes, however south slopes above 2900 meters may be
sporting moist, heavier snow.
There have been reports of small soft slab
avalanches and moist snow sloughs in wind deposited pockets and on lee slopes.
The ever present predictions of poor
weather and moisture, be it rain, or snow at higher elevations, have not
materialized this week. The long term forecast for Friday and then again in the
latter part of the weekend is calling for rain and snow. We shall see.
Most reports are that great alpine
conditions still exist and routes are still in good shape. Snowline in Rogers
Pass
is reported at 3000 meters.
Travel is still very decent in the alpine
but those big and new crevasses which seem to be popping up everywhere are now being
hidden by blown in snow. Crossing these crevasses must be looked at with a tad
suspicious eye as it is still early in the season for any significant strength
in bridging. Comments have been plentiful about the amount of crevasses seen in
what are normally considered benign areas.
Have a great weekend and be careful out
there.
Dave Stark
IFMGA
Mountain Guide