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The following are some various ice conditions. The
only one I actually climbed is R&D today. The others are based on viewing
them from either the road or other vantage points.
R&D: In good early season shape (Oct 31)
and has seen lots of traffic. It offers good hooking on dry ice on the
lower half then very wet plastic ice on the upper half. It will take 16cm screws
anywhere. The cold temps (-14C @ 13:30 at the base of the route) combined with
the dripping wet ice makes the ropes icy very quickly. Beware of rappel ropes
freezing to the ice surface. Pull them immediately. The approach has a well
beaten trail.
Other conditions:
Chalice and the Blade / Spoon and Lone Ranger: Not
formed
Parallel Falls: Not formed
Trick or Treat: It's formed but the 4 hour approach
over snowy frozen scree might not be worth it.
Cabrio and Centaur: Far from being formed as viewed
from Wind Tower on Oct 24
Arterial Spurt: Just a thin veneer as viewed from
Heart Mountain on Oct 26
Whiteman's Falls: A waterfall in the most truest
since of the word as in lots of gushing water.
Happy ice hunting,
Sean Isaac
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