Warm temperatures this weekend have resulted in fragile ice conditions on
some of the routes that did form. Keep in mind that some routes only just
formed during the cold spell a week ago. Many of these thin routes are
poorly welded to the rock. This was confirmed during an incident this
weekend when a pitch fell off while someone was trying to climb it.
An avalanche accident this weekend in K-Country involving ice climbers is a
reminder that the avalanche season has started. Do not let the sight of
extensive bare ground fool you. Gullies and basins above where some of the
early season routes have formed have windslabs in them and the wind combined
with warm temperatures is not helping stability.
It is supposed to get warmer yet. As Larry said last Thursday-Patience!
Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide
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