The following is a report on conditions observed at
the Stanley Headwall today (Nov 10).
Approach: It is that in between
time of the season when there is just enough snow to make walking tedious but
not enough to warrant skis. 10cm of snow at the parking lot and on the lower
trail which became deeper as the hike progressed. By the time we left the trail
and the trees there was 20 to 40cm making for awkward stumbling through the
scree below Nemesis and up to the Thriller Cave. Going to need a good base and
more snow before skis will be useful. 6 pairs of feet stomped up and down
the trail today; however, 3cm of fresh snow fell during the day and it was still
snowing lightly when we left so our nicely packed trail might be gone by
tomorrow.
Snow Conditions: It was -7 C
at 1950m at 10:00am at the Thriller Cave. The big slopes below the routes
have approximately 35cm of snow consisting of 15cm of low density fluff over the
5cm thick Nov 7 rain crust. The rain crust did not support walking. No wind
effect noted in the valley. Due to the low ceiling, we could not see the slopes
above the Nemesis and Suffer Machine. No recent avalanche activity noted from
our limited perspective.
Route Conditions: Stanley ice is a
little bit behind schedule for this time of year but there is still lots of
water flowing and ice is growing. Hopefully the temperatures will stay mild thus
keeping the tap on. See attached photos of French Reality area, Suffer Machine
and Nemesis
French Reality: Lots of thin looking ice
in the lower mixed corner. The upper pillar is not yet connected.
Nightmare of Wolfe St: Not in yet but
close.
Acid Howl: Not even close
Suffer Machine: Fully formed and looks
thick enough but still narrow in places. Might be problematic getting from the
aid-bolt traverse to the ice. A team attempted it today but backed-off from part
way up the first pitch (the M7 rock pitch).
Nemesis: It was climbed today. Appears in
WI6 conditions right now but still wet so should continue to fill
out.
Thriller Cave: Thriller is in usual mixed
shape but will get bigger since it is still dripping. The hanging ice pillars of
Roto Tiller and Distiller are as big as I have seen.
Sinus Gully: Formed. We had a drill with
us so replaced the mank bolt anchor at the top.
-Sean Isaac, Assistant Alpine Guide
