To add to Patrick's excellent report, the top 15 m did have slightly less
than adequate protection (though it is easier climbing) -- bring a couple
extra long screws and be prepared to excavate deeply through the crap to the
better, though sun-rotten, stuff below. Be careful on those ice lenses,
there is a huge hole into the rushing water that crumbled into existence as
I was exiting near the top.
Tom Wolfe
AAG
-----Original Message-----
From: mcr-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mcr-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of mcr@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: November 12, 2006 21:29
To: mcr@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [MCR] Murchison Falls
Climbed Murchison Falls today.
The Parkway did not share its usual impressive views.
Not much visibility was had from road elevation between 9:30 and 18:00 (
late start).
The snow getting to the route was just enough to provide coverage and good
traction.
Once in the open below the route depth is variable, lots of wind activity,
snow drifts increased areas to knee depth, yet still much exposed rock.
Overall volume of snow in the lower bowl not a big issue YET but slabs are
forming.
The route can be best described as fun with adequate protection and
currently hard for its "guide book" grade with some early season hazards.
Main characteristics are ice lenses with rotten snow and ice bellow, found
on most ledges.
However, things are never desperate but remain technical until the end.
The upper left side was dripping and the route does appear ro be filling in
quickly.
During the day snow came down averaging 1 to 2 cm per hour.
At 19:00 lots of new snow on the road all the way to HWY1.
Patrick Delaney
Ass. Alpine guide
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them.
The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or
lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to
the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this
information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the
Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making
decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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