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Climbed Malignant Mushroom yesterday in the Ghost.
Plastic blue-goo offered one swing sticks but the top third was a little
sun-leached making screw placements less than ideal. By noon the sun had escaped
the clouds and was heating up the sunny amphitheatre. We started up our
second route, the mixed corner immediately left (Perfect Day M6), but quickly
retreated only a few moves up because a small hanging icicle on the left
margin of Malignant Mushroom crashed down. We decided it was getting too warm so
called it quits and left. By the time we returned back to the car at 2pm it was
8 C; way too warm for ice climbing, especially in the sun. Warm temps are still
forecasted for the front ranges tomorrow and Monday so be prudent of where you
decide to seek out ice. In short, avoid sunny ice in the ghost and Kananaskis
Country until the temperatures become more seasonal. I was at Haffner today
and it is slightly cooler towards the west in the main
range.
Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide
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