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Hello,
On Sunday Sandy Walker and I climbed
the first pitch Bourgeau Left hand. The ice became detached mid way up the pitch
which made for that nice "bonging" sound described in the Waterfall Ice guide,
we were also getting propagating cracks from heavy swings. The
protection was also not great. All in all a bit of a scary lead and not
recommended. We quickly bailed.
Other considerations would be the amount of
snow above the route (which hasn't slid) if there is warmer temperatures or the
avalanche conditions change.
Jesse de Montigny
Assistant Alpine Guide
Assistant Ski
Guide
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