Climbed Mixed Master today with Craig Miller from Guelph.
This was the second time that I guided the route this season, and it was
remarkably similar to how it was in December - with two main differences. A
huge number of "Swiss Cheese" screw holes now puncture any strategic piece
of ice, and the "thin vein of ice" on the last pitch is now rock. We
drytooled this section and found positive holds and M6 climbing.
On a side note regarding V-threads: when putting in a second, or third
Abalakov at a stance, please place your Abalakov such that it is equalized
with the existing one. That way subsequent climbers will find one bomber
rappel point rather than 2 or 3 dubious ones.
Cheers,
Grant Meekins
Alpine Guide
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