[MCR] Deville to Rogers Pass - April 21-25

Subject: [MCR] Deville to Rogers Pass - April 21-25
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 19:16:34 -0700

We base camped on the Deville Neve from April 21-23.  Generally clear skies, daytime highs below freezing and good stability.  The snowpack coverage in the alpine is excellent.  On a ski ascent of the north glacier on Grand Mountain, there was a thinly bridged schrund at about 10,000 ft.  From the ridge we could see that the descent off the north side of Sugarloaf to the Sugarloaf-Grand col looks more broken than in past years.  We skied roped up much of the time.  Despite the appearances of even coverage, we were not willing to risk an unroped crevasse fall.

 

We experienced some large whumphs, mainly on low angle or west facing terrain.  Aside from some afternoon solar triggered avalanches, we observed very little avalanche activity over the five days.  We turned around near the summit ridge on Mount Kilpatrick as there was a very easy shear down 30cm, on a 45 degree slope.

 

The Deville rappels are in good shape, two 50m ropes required.  The first rappel off a two bolt station is easily found this year.  Rap almost a full 50m to a two pin station under a good protective overhang.  Climb up and across the gully to climber’s left to a red sling on a piton with a two bolt station about 1 m below (may be buried if there is new snow).  With snow loaded in the gully below, 25m gets you to steep snow, and 50m gets to the lower angle snow slope.  Boot crampons were nice to have for the middle traverse pitch.

 

The climb out of the basin on the moraine below Mount Fox to the Glacier Circle Hut was near isothermal.  I highly recommend finishing the Deville Raps and the climb to the hut in the early morning to minimize the avalanche danger.  From a camp below the NE ridge of Mount Wheeler on the Deville Neve, it only took 20 minutes on April 24 to ski down to the Deville Headwall (4 km).  We were happy that we started early and finished early.

 

With a light freeze (-2) at Glacier Circle Hut on April 25, we ascended the Witch Tower route to the Illecillewaet Neve.  With ski crampons we were able to ski up 2/3 of the slope before boot hiking up the last steep slope, on the climber’s left.  There was 10-30 cm of new snow loaded onto the slope, forming a soft slab on top of a melt-freeze crust that our boots mostly punched through.  With a forecast for more wind and precipitation, it felt like a good time to get back to Rogers Pass.  Stability in the afternoon, or after any more significant wind and new snow or rain, will be poor on the Witch Tower exit.  The exit out of Glacier Circle into the Beaver Valley looks like it is fully isothermal, and in many places there will be no snow.

 

Crossing the Illecillewaet Neve to Rogers Pass was excellent until we got off the glacier.  The descent from below the ice to valley bottom was near isothermal and it was sporty water-skiing with big packs.  Down the creek and out on the Great Glacier trail was in good condition.  8 hours from the Hut to the highway.

 

The Glacier Circle Hut underwent a major renovation last summer, and it is presently in excellent condition. 

 

Just a reminder to purchase a Park entry pass, Wilderness Camping Permit, and book the Glacier Circle Cabin through Glacier National Park prior to your trip.  We encountered one party that had neglected to purchase camping permits.  Failure to purchase these permits and book the cabin may result in fines, court appearance, or sleeping outside a warm cabin that has been booked by other parties!

 

In short, it is an excellent time to be up high, and conditions down low are in poor shape for ski travel.  Have fun!

 

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

Park Warden