[MCR] Chamonix Mt. Blanc Alps Conditions

General Conditions:

The French Alps in late May and early June have received a steady pattern of strong localized afternoon convective activity as well as regular Atlantic stroms with predominantly South West winds which were at times strong.

 

This has brought much fresh snow to the Alpine and wintery conditions with isolated windslabs. 30-50cm of new snow fell  Monday Tuesday evenings. This snow bonded fairly well and settled quickly.  However daytime heating is causing much avalanche activity in the form of moist sloughs up to size 2 on solar aspects. Avalanche fatality yesterday I think it was the rescue I witnessed somewhere on the NE face of Mt. Blanc du Tacul.

 

We have had warmer temps and strong solar radiation over the last week. With this I have noticed a marked increase of cornice failure, serac activity (size 4 serac triggered avalanche off the Glacier des Bosson yesterday)and crevace/bergshcrund bridges weakening/failing. 

 

 

South faces on many of the Aiguilles such as Grand Capucin, Midi are free of snow and in excellent condition. Many couloirs have preserved ice and we have had good overnight freezes. Crampons a must on just about every route and approach.

 

Guided Arrete des Cosmique and Mt. Blanc via the three Monts. We set the track up to the Maudit. Beware of the left tracks going up the Tacul triangle as they are directly below the first serac. Heavy trail breaking encountered with sometimes knee deep snow. Large cevaces opening up with good bridges and Schrund on Maudit is "delicate". Some burried fixed ropes running from Col du Maudit lower rocks (I bailed at the Maudit due to solar avalanche hazzard). Arrete des Cosmique in excellent condition.

Eric Dumerac ACMG guide

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