[MCR] MCR Summary - Rockies/Interior July 12

Mountain Conditions Summary – Rockies and Interior Ranges
Issued July 12, 2007

Hot. Since mid-week temperatures have climbed into the 30 degree range. 
Forest fire hazard is presently rated Extreme, and the alpine snowpack is
melting rapidly. Several areas in British Columbia set all time record high
temperatures this week.

Travelling conditions in alpine areas were excellent over the past week.
Above average snow depths persist above 3000 meters (250 cm at Abbot Pass,
300 cm on the Haig Glacier). Where the snowpack is thick, its now well-consolidated,
making for easy travel with shallow foot penetration. As always, early starts
are the key to success when travelling on summer snow.

Bare ice is starting to appear on the glaciers; mainly at the toes, in pockets
and on steep, sun exposed faces.  An example would be the Skyladder route
on Mt. Andromeda, where a bare patch is growing mid-route – expect more ice
to appear in the coming few days. Snowline on the glaciers presently exists
at about 2500 meters. Transitional areas from bare ice to snow require caution,
as shallow snowpacks are unlikely to support body weight when the snow is
soft. These are likely places to fall into a crevasse.

The classic alpine north faces such as Temple and Edith Cavell are shedding
snow and quite wet. These should be coming into shape soon, but are likely
to be wet over the next few days. Mount Robson will be a mountain of slush
this weekend and needs more time. Ridge routes like Sir Donald and Bugaboo
NE have been climbed, but be prepared to deal with snow patches. South and
west aspect rock routes are dry and good to go. In all areas, remember that
rivers will be roaring in the afternoon.

Given the forecast temperatures of 35+ degrees, the mountains are likely
to shed another major layer of skin this weekend.  Slab avalanches in the
high alpine are likely. Avoid steep snow routes and couloirs - stick to ridges
and other areas where your exposure to falling snow and rocks can be minimized.
And take care of the forest – its ready to explode and all forest fire systems
are on standby.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide