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The Bugaboos are generally in great condition for the end of
July. Blue bird days, very hot at tree line and pleasantly cool at ridge top
temps.
There is still snow to travel on 20 min up from the Kain hut,
glacier travel and coverage is still good in the upper alpine but the snow
is melting very fast and the holes are opening up. The Bug-Snow Patch
col is in good condition for now, the shrund is open but easy to pass on
the right. Access to the W Ridge of Pigeon via the S is still possible but
wide snow bridges are getting thin over big holes. There is a fair bit of
natural snow and rock fall in upper the alpine from steep glaciated terrain
during the heat of the day and many areas where the permafrost is melting
from the ground.
The N and NW Face rock routes on Pigeon are wet from snow
melt, the classic routes are busy and dry, the Becky/Chouinard routes
is seeing allot of traffic and climbers were reporting tough times finding a
good bivy in East Creek.
The new and improved trail work up to the Kain hut is much
appreciated and making the hike up sweet. Many climbers were walking on snow
covered glaciers with rope in the pack, this practice is not
recommended during summer months?.
Enjoy the Bugs.
Mark Stewart
Mountain Guide
Cirrus Alpine Guides
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