Subject: | [MCR] Tantalus |
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Date: | Tue, 7 Aug 2007 12:22:47 -0700 (PDT) |
Tantalus: As reported previously snow travel remains very good regardless of daytime warming. Snow coverage is noteably better for the date than any season over the last decade? Estimate 2+ meters of seasonal snowpack remaining on the Serratus glacier as low as 1900m! Little if any exposed ice above 1500m. As a result, route access from the Habrel hut, all of which requires glacier travel, remains largely problem free. Typically problematic Schrunds such as the W face Dioni remain barely discernible. Routes such as the West Face of Serratus, typically melted out by this time of year, at least for the time being still exist. N face routes on Serratus remain in excellent condition. Again little if any exposed ice the entire width of the face with all Schrunds easily negotiable. Steep snow climbing remained excellent well into mid morning. The last half of the E ridge Serratus, accessed from its N face, didn?t meet any of the loose rock bad rap received in the Mclane guide and made for an interesting and challenging 4th class ridge climb. Except for a recent significant rock fall event from its NE buttress, coverage and snow travel conditions made for straight forward access to E ridge of Alpha from the N. Of note with the better than average snow coverage is rocky areas which would normally have been well clear of snow are just now melting out providing a surprising a prolific rock fall hazard. Kudos to the Habrel Hut which is a magnificent addition to the range. Key beta is to bring a Colman canister for the Barbi?gotta like it! Keith Reid, MG
Alpha N_1_1.JPG
Serratus N_1_1.JPG
Dioni W Face_1_1.JPG _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. |
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