Conditions seem a month behind the usual
norm. It seems the mountains are in a mid July like
state - based on the amount of snow melt on different aspects, the
depth of snow on glaciers, the level of water flowing in smaller
creeks and the healthy bug population at treeline.
In the Whistler area one can expect to
encounter snow patches at 5500' on all aspect other than south facing
slopes. Not much blue ice is showing on the glaciers. The weather has
been cloudier than normal and we have had less prolonged hot dry
spells. A bit like the August after the 98/99 winter. The glaciers might
come out with a net gain of snow by the end of the season......
In terms of mountain travel guides have been
reporting good snow travel conditions. In the Tantalus area there is
a 2 meters + snow pack at 1900m and little ice is exposed above 1500
meters. Crevasses and Bergshrunds are still well covered which is
making route finding easier than what is normal for this time of
season. The winters snow is still melting out from many rocky areas, so
rockfall normally associated with the winters snow melt is still a
player in decision making. I have seen a few slivers of cornice still
hanging on to ridge tops.
Further up Coast on the Howson Range
glaciers the firn line (where last winters snow has melted to) is
at 1600m which is much the same as here in the south.
In Squamish routes were reported as reasonably
dry 4 days ago, but one can bet that the ongoing wetness in the last few
days has dampened some climbing.
Now might be the time of the
season for easily accessing high glaciated areas even
by ski, rock climbing lower elevation southish aspects,
and I wouldn't doubt there might be some good cooler climbing
conditions on the High Peaks of the Coast Mountains. When coming down
(or going up) expect low elevation patchs of snow where you normally
find rock, scree or meadow. Basically think Lots of
Snow.
Dave Sarkany
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