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The Bug's seem to have had the better weather the
last few days. NE ridge on Bugaboo Spire was in great shape as of
yesterday (as were all of the spires) but there was snow above 7500ft hiking out
this morning. The Bugaboo Snowpatch col is rapidly becoming
unappealing with numerous crevasses open at the bottom and dirty, rock
filled ice at the top. The bergshrund is still passable on the
climbers right but won't be for long. Heard numerous rockfall events over
3 days in that area. Large (TV size) blocks lay strewn about at the
bottom. There have been 2 close calls with climbers falling from the top
of the col all the way down in the last few days. One walked away
unscathed and the other broke his ankle and was airlifted out - both very
lucky..
We chose to use the Pigeon Snowpatch rappels
for our descent for these reasons. The road in was not affected by
the rain last night and is in good shape.
Take care out there..
Mike Stuart
Assistant Alpine Guide
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