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I just returned from a few days in the Bugaboos. As
reported many times this summer, the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is in appalling
condition with much loose rock exposed and poised to fall. We climbed the West
Ridge of Pigeon Spire (on Wednesday, Sept 5) but completely avoided the col by
approaching via the Bugaboo Glacier under the south faces of Snowpatch and
Pigeon Spire. This still has its own hazards with large boulders perched on the
glacial tongue ready to slide once lubricated by daytime warming. Snow bridges
and plugs were frozen hard in the am but rotted junk in the pm. Aggressive
probing is recommended. The west ridge itself was dry but that all changed
yesterday as it now sports a fresh coat of snow. Temperatures on Thursday and Friday were cold (just above 0
C at 9am) and not conducive to enjoyable barehanded free climbing prompting
a mass exodus. The hut was completely empty when we left yesterday
morning.
Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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