[MCR] North Star Peak

Subject: [MCR] North Star Peak
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 13:10:53 -0600
Climbed North Star Peak(3100m) west of Radium on July 13. Approached from the north via the western lobe of the north glacier, and then climbed the west face (PD, 4th/5.0). Descended same route with downclimbing and two 20m raps. Travel conditions were excellent on the glacier with mostly dry ice below 2900m. Where there is still snow on the glacier the bridges felt solid due to a very good freeze overnight. The summit rock band was mostly dry, but found snow and ice in most cracks and corners. The light dusting of snow from the night of Sept. 11 had almost entirely melted off by afternoon.

Overall the Purcells appear very dry and conditions are excellent. From a distance the Bugaboos also appear fairly dry, but I would suspect the cracks to be snowy and/or icy given what we saw on our climb.

Have fun out there.


Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG Ski Guide, Asst. Alpine Guide
26-640 Upper Lakeview Rd
Invermere  BC    V0A1K3
CANADA
250-342-5013
jeremymackenzie@xxxxxxxxxxx

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