Spent the last four days in the Bugaboos with
perfect weather and next to no crowds. Climbed NE Ridge of Bugaboo
on Thursday. The route is hardly "in shape" with all of the chimney
pitches covered in between 5 and 20cms of snow with ice underneath making for
very slow and tedious climbing. The traverse between the summits was all
snow and 75% of the route was climbed with gloves on. Good
times...
Yesterday we climbed the Snowpatch route which was
much nicer due to its aspect. We noticed fresh bear tracks coming up the
Crescent glacier, over the Snowpatch - Son of Snowpatch col then down to the
Bugaboo glacier and back towards the hut.! Adventurous bear!!
Lots of rockfall observed around Bugaboo and
Crescent Spires. We had a fridge size block let loose underneath us at the
base of Lion's Way Friday morning. The Bugaboo - Snowpatch col has not
improved since Sean's posting last week. Overnight temperatures were very
warm (9 degrees at 3:30AM). Snowpatch Pigeon rappel route was used.
Fantastic new trail from the Kain hut up to
Applebee...thank you to the trail crew!!
Cheers
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
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