Carl Johnson and I climbed the Waterman
Couloir on Mt Stanley yesterday. As mentioned in the mountain conditions summery
yesterday the new snow on the glacier is doing a great job of hiding the
crevasses but providing no new strength to the snow bridges. This makes for slow
travel and lots of probing.
It was possible to pass the burgshrund on
the right by climbing a mixed pitch which went through an ice tunnel. The
couloir was good climbing with access to good ice screws through
out.
By the time we reached the base of the
couloir on our descent it was snowing heavily and approximately 10cm of
snow had fallen. Sluffs where beginning to come down the couloir and winds had
picked up. I would expect to find wind slabs in lee and cross loaded terrain
features today.
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine
Guide
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