[MCR] Alpine Conditions, Lake O'Hara area

Today we climbed near Lake O'Hara to 2750 m on steep, north facing, non-glaciated terrain - looking for ice/mixed climbing.  We did not find any ice in a deep alpine gully feature which we followed for 600 m, and in general the O'Hara area seemed dry for frozen climbing.  

We did find perfect alpine climbing conditions, the face was locked up tight - full moon to start, snowdepth averaged 60-80 cm with a good crust near the surface, making for near perfect cramponing on this frozen surface. Mostly there was 10 cm of unconsolidated snow on top of this frozen surface, and sometimes up to 40 cm but short lived.  No slab felt anywhere. Very occasional breaking through the entire HS into facets on rocks underneath. Certainly no rockfall, it was cold - we were all dressed up with cold toes and fingers. Perfect.  Moderate west winds moving snow above 3000 m.

If only we didn't get shutdown by a 5 meter step of steep,blank rock with no ice and no options.

This area is 1080 km SE of Kitwanga.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide

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