[MCR] Ghost ice

On Wed. we climbed the Hooker and the Candle Stick Maker.  The roads were pleasantly snow free, not even drifts in the valley bottom.  We were even able to drive several hundreds metres up the hill on the west side before the road got too icy.  At least 1 or 2 other parties had been in before judging by the footprints and the ice.

Ice on these 2 routes was cold and hard, making for difficult screw placements.  The first pitch on CSM was mostly vertical with a small overlap to overcome.  Perhaps WI5+. The 2nd pitch was brittle enough to warrant a good sheltered belay which we found by way of a small ice cave up a few metres on the right.

Hidden Dragon was well formed with some wetter looking ice, and the Joker was fat.

The Big Drip was in full form.

Cheers,
Shaun King
Alpine Guide

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