Nov 22 - Climbed Bourgeau Left and experienced surprisingly good
conditions. Though the last few nights had dipped close to -20, the
ice was damp and plastic the whole way up. First pitch is a bit thin
at the bottom, but did not sound dangerously hollow and took 13cm
screws. The final pitch was steep, but featured with some good rests.
The flow is not very wide right now, this made it impossible to get
to the fixed rock station out right before the final 40m, don't plan
on belaying there until if fills out. Of note, the sun was warm and
screws melting out was a concern. The difference between a screw
placed in a shady corner and one placed in the sun was like night and
day. Bring long screws and look for the shaded grooves. There was
around 15cm of low density snow on the approach and immediately above
the route.
Nov 21 - Drove to Field to have a look at the climbs there. Twisted
is in as a pure ice line, Super Bok is in (though it's hard to see
the 'rock arch' pitch), Homebrew is also in. Pilsner is touching on
the right via a thin pillar, but the mixed routes would be in good
shape, Carlsberg is formed but looks like it needs to fatten up just
a little to be inviting. Guinness Gully is all there, but while
climbing the first (thin) pitch the ice was very brittle, fracturing
off in large plates so I came down after a few meters. Best to let it
fatten up, or for it to warm up a bit as not to destroy the pitch for
future parties. Around 10cm of low density snow below Guinness Gully.
Cheers,
Jason Billing
ARG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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