Climbed on Mixed Master today with Jesse de Montigny and Mike
Trehearn. The first pitch was thin (especially the first step) and a
bit detached requiring a delicate technique. Good hooks could be
found and good screws required some searching, short screws and load
limiting runners were an asset. The ice improved after the first ten
meters and the 5.8 rock traverse was dry providing good climbing on
solid holds. The M4 pitch above this was mostly powder snow over
rock. We did not climb the last two pitches as pitch 6 was not the
'easy snow slope' described in the book, but a thin vein of hollow,
detached ice on rock slab with no chance for protection. Unfortunate,
as the final pitched looked to be in classic shape. Of note, pitch
lengths are a bit off in the book - pitch 1 is upwards of 55m (not
50m) and pitch 4 is also 55m (not 40m). We felt the rappel station in
the gully (the 4th rappel from the top) could be improved as it is
currently an old 1/4 inch bolt and an old, very rusty knifeblade.
Jason Billing
ARG
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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