Climbed the Gmoser route today...
As Marc mentioned the route is mostly dry with just
a few patches of snow in the gullies above where the Gmoser route joins the Kain
route, but all of it is avoidable. Perren crack is totally dry but has
snow at the base which is also easy to get around.
The descent has quite a bit of snow with
hard ice in some spots - namely where you have to climb back up (after the
5th 30m rappel). The rock on the lookers right needed to be climbed to get
up to the notch and the next anchor. All of the anchors are clearly
visible.
We dropped into the big snow gulley to the lookers
right of the normal descent trail and had a quick and easy return to the
base. An ice axe would be advisible here.
Have fun!
Cheers
Mike Stuart Alpine
Guide
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