[MCR] MCR Summary - Rockies and Columbia Mountains. June 26, 2008

MCR Summary - Rockies and Columbia Mountains

June 26, 2008

 

Finally some summer weather has taken hold of the mountains for more than just a day!  A strong ridge of high pressure anchored over southern BC and Alberta for this weekend will mean clear skies, and valley bottom temperatures in the upper 20's and low 30's.  This means a major period of change in store for the mountains this weekend!

 

The limited reports from alpine areas all continue to note the abundant snowpack remaining at higher elevations.  With the onset of a major warm spell this weekend, the mountains will be shedding another major layer of skin!  Expect avalanches and rockfall in many locations.  Avoid climbing in gullies, keep clear of all cornice features, and be suspect of any big snow slope greater than 30 degrees.

 

For those planning glacier travel, prepare for post holing as the snow is unlikely to freeze with overnight lows of 16 degrees.  At the higher elevations, crevasses remain mostly well covered but are starting to become visible lower down, in shallow areas and near glacier toes.  Keep your eyes peeled, and use a probe to search.  Warm snow is weak snow and falling through could be easy this weekend.

 

Best advice - hold onto your horses in the alpine and stick to the rock.  Let the mountains shed.  Mt. Louis is in good shape, as are most rock routes on the eastern slopes.  Alpine rock climbs like Castle Mountain are good, but expect snow on the descents and in shaded areas.  No reports in from the Bugaboos - but expect good climbing (S and W aspects) but poor travelling on the glaciers.

 

In summary - a fantastic weekend lies ahead. Clear and hot.  Avoid alpine snow as it won't freeze, and spend your time on the rock - preferably with nothing hanging over your head.  Summer is here, and this heat is a key ingredient towards better alpine conditions in the weeks ahead!

 

Grant Statham

Mountain Guide

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